ZNLine Factory Enigma Build by Mark Novack

Again, the Tettra hinge slotting guide. Simply the best method I have ever used. Central Hobbies is the best source in the USA that I know of for these tools. After the marks are made, it takes about a minute with this tool to cut 6 perfectly centered slots. Please note the Styrofoam blocks under the stands. I wanted to make this minor point because I have been guilty of not doing this in the past and it really does affect the outcome of the work. Simply this; bring the work to you. It is important that you are comfortable, balanced, and steady when doing work that requires extreme accuracy. How many times I have reached over, craning my neck and twisting my body to drill a hole or make a cut and the cut turned out poorly...taking the minute to position the work and you can save time in the long run and makes working much more pleasant. (OK, enough ergonomic philosophy, I'll get back to work)

Again, this method results in great alignment. I did not have to elongate the slots to get this tip relationship. The Tettra tool...I can't say enough good things about it.

I refer again the the table saw cut that left a 3mm slice. 1mm ply facing on the wing cap and root cap leaves a perfect millimeter clearance. Add the Oracover, and the final clearance will be about .6mm. Pretty!!!

Again, JP used the router to cut the depth for the hard points. The position set the pivot of the ZN horn directly over the hinge line.

The MK B.B. Adjuster attaches to the side of the horn, so the side of the horn is the part that must line up with the hole in the servo arm.

The hard points are going in, and at the same time I shall cap the root of the aileron and it's opposing face on the wing, and apply the 1/64" ply to the TE or the aileron. I will apply the ply to the wing TE after all of this dries as there are some angles to deal with and I do not want to move the cap pieces accidentally.

It took about an hour to get two wings glued and taped up. I took a break to get this posted, and I'll go back and do some more gluing. I have used blocks to keep the capping flat against the end cuts and a piece of hard balsa along the TE to keep the 1/64" ply in place. Just like the stabs and rudders, but a little bit longer.

A good shot showing the TE balsa piece. holding the ply on. Also, I did not have to block down the hard point. JP bought a new router and it is cutting so well that the hard points fit perfectly and stay put just right.

The belly pan mounting is quite easy but it is very important that it is done well. It is such a large piece of the fuselage that a poor fit will look really out of place and you will see it even when you sleep. There are many ways to do this and we use several methods, always trying to do it better. First, mark the spot for the cowling intake and exhaust. The pipe stinger will fit through the exhaust hole, so rough fitting the pipe in it's approximate location is necessary. I just hold it about in position and eyeball it as the hole is going to be far larger than the pipe's stinger. On my airplane, I will be using an ES Composites 140 2 cycle medium length pipe their part number 2C140M80. Here is my exhaust mark. I will continue when I can post the photos

I just jot the location. I am making each hole slightly different here so I am not marking it at all precisely.

Back to the Dremel grinder. Again, I am using the Dremel diamond coated cutting wheel on this Kevlar belly pan. Then I use a sanding drum and finally, 400 grit paper to remove the fuzzies. Here is my exhaust hole.

It is the builders choice whether or not to louver the holes or just make a pleasing shape. I prefer simply cutting a pleasing shape. No wondering about airflow on this one. The DZ shall get a nice dose of air right over the cylinder head.

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